how to waterproof a wooden structure for a hot tub Building rammed earth walls to improve my underground bunker

by:ALPHA     2019-07-02
how to waterproof a wooden structure for a hot tub Building rammed earth walls to improve my underground bunker
Why hit the Earth?Traditionally, solid houses are built with soil dug up from construction sites.They are built without cement and are load-bearing.They have little construction cost, but there are still many people who can't stand up for centuries.
All of these qualities appeal to my husband and I, and that's why we build our first solid buff in the traditional way.As I explained in my original article on building my underground fire bunker, this should be a cheap and temporary solution to the threat of catastrophic fire warning.We have never built with solid soil before.
We do have a cinva ram press, but I am concerned about all potential weaknesses if we compress the cinva ram block at a different pressure than clay --We will use mortar-based mortar to connect them, which will not be compressed at all.We have a lot of careful consideration for the design of the Tamp, because after all, they will be expected to be carried out safely and effectively in the event of a fire.I have studied the rammed earth structure as much as I can, but most of my problems have not been addressed in the existing literature.
So we have no choice but to experiment.
Here are some of the unique issues we are looking to address and the approach we are taking.If anyone has any useful advice or personal experience we can get from it, it's time to leave your comments as we will continue to build in every free time.Please don't hesitate to contribute your ideas!Ventilation is important.
We must be confident that we will not commit suicide in order to survive.I have read some disturbing information about the lack of ventilation in some commercial-made underground bunkers.I solved the ventilation problem in the original design of my fire bunker, but when we finished the solid pit around my fire bunker entrance, all of this will change.
There will no longer be direct access to the outside world.This is a good thing if there is a jungle fire.I'm glad to have the protection of radiation heat.
The wooden door that enters the underground fire pit is a small target and is embedded on both sides of the Earth, but there is still a danger that the radiant heat from the door may bring us some sadness.I dug a passage in the clay and put the water near the door in the hope that it would catch the fire from any flying fire and help guide the entrance to the fire bunker in the case of smoke.Even after the evaporation of the water, I hope that the Strait will catch the afterfire of the flying fire and the burning debris.
However, it is a recognized fact that a fire storm will produce its own wind, so there will always be dangerous factors.In the Jungle Fire, the solid Velcro provides more heat and smoke protection, but in times of peace, the air may smell if there is no fresh air entering the closed area.These photos show a solution that we provide enough ventilation.
We built the first vent and thought it was a success.You will see how we insert metal flies.Along the screen mesh section of the hole, leave enough space to fill and seal the smoke if needed.This is a problem for us to build a solid banner.
In traditional rammed earth buildings, there are many ideas about how to strengthen the strength of the rammed earth.But our situation is different.When preparing for an emergency like a catastrophic bushfire, it makes sense to prepare for the worst.The best thing is obviously there will be no fire.
One of the worst results is that the doors around the solid part of the underground fire pit are blocked or damaged.The main entrance will face our home.If the house burns down, it could, in theory, collapse and block the door.Unlikely, but possible.The frame of the hot metal House, the roof and the burning debris may prove to be problematic.
So we need to be able to find a way out if necessary.We put a shovel in the fire pit, so we have this tool.We don't use concrete in a solid concrete, so we have the ability.
But, for example, if we lay wire-mesh lengths between solid soil, as suggested by at least one group of solid soil home builders, a quick and safe exit through a solid strip becomes unlikely.The reason they incorporate the length of the barbed wire is, for example, if a car applies extreme pressure on a part of the wall that hits it, and the car cannot stop and hit your structure, then the integrity of the entire wall should help prevent collapse.I can see the validity from their proposal, but I don't expect high speed traffic nearby.
If the families on the road retreat to our home in the fire, or the local fire brigade should miraculously decide to visit our home in the fire without a fire safety plan, they know to keep their vehicle going forward instead of turning 90 degrees into our fire bunker.We have barbed wire and consider using it, but decided to choose a solid fence made of solid soil, that's all.At one end of each section, we create an indent for the next section, a bit like attaching Lego blocks.
Most of what I read in my research says we don't need it, but I don't think there's any harm in the extra effort.Adding an extra piece of wood to the frame design does not cost us anything.Waterproof the solid soil...Or no wall at all?During the rainy season, we need our solid Velcro to be waterproof, but we don't want to spend money on formal waterproofing.
We want the clay and clay mixture we use from our own land to be able to be compacted enough to prevent the rain from washing it away without using a waterproof compound.Obviously, for most people, mechanical stamping will be the first choice for the construction of a solid earth house, but we just build some solid metal and decided to stick to the traditional stamping method.We stayed further away and would spend hours sitting in the car to rent a car, so the inconvenience and cost of getting modern technology was a key factor.
Here is the process of trying to compress the earth to avoid waterproofing.First of all, we mix our Earth into our home.made frames.Then my husband left.His weight and pressure created a noticeable indentation on Earth.
Next, we hit it with the flat end of the log splitter.It has been improved a little bit further.After that, we slam the Earth with the end of the board.
It is heavier and with some extra muscles it will compress well in small and compact parts.The easiest tool to operate is bricks.We hit the bricks especially along the edges, so the sides don't loosen when we remove the frame.When we finished the stom foot and the heavy strike, about 100mm of the soil turned into a 50mm solid pit.
Then we add another 100mm of the earth mixture and do it again.The biggest challenge for us will be to increase the roof.It must be comfortable enough to rule out all the smoke and burning afterfire during the fire storm, and strong enough to accommodate the soil and plants I will put on it.
We're still thinking about our options, but at this point I suspect we're going to create more solid columns near the actual bunker, and then pass the beams through, and somehow, these beamsWe may have to extend the width of the solid beam where the beam meets the wall.Since metal is easily deformed at extreme high temperatures, I am determined to come up with a way to integrate a live roof that is not exposed to any part of a potential fire.I don't quite understand how to do it yet, but I'm working on it!.
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